Nasolabial folds — the "smile lines" running from the sides of the nose to the corners of the mouth — are a normal part of facial anatomy. Everyone has them. They tend to deepen with age as facial fat shifts, bone and volume change, and skin loses firmness.
Skincare can improve the surface — fine lines, texture, hydration and sun damage around the fold — but it can't restore lost volume or lift tissue. Deeper folds are addressed by in-clinic treatments. This guide explains what topicals can and can't change, and the F.O.L.D. Method — Find the driver, Opt for the right tool, Limit expectations, Defend daily.
This article is for educational purposes only. It does not constitute medical advice. Injectable and device treatments should only be performed by a qualified dermatologist or plastic surgeon. Sudden facial asymmetry or drooping needs urgent medical attention. Last reviewed: 28 October 2026.
Nasolabial folds are the natural creases running from the sides of the nose to the corners of the mouth. They deepen with age mainly because of changes beneath the skin — shifting and shrinking fat pads, bone changes and reduced skin firmness — rather than surface wrinkling alone. Topical skincare, such as retinoids, sunscreen and moisturisers, can improve the skin around the fold: fine lines, texture, hydration and sun-related changes, which may soften its appearance slightly. However, creams cannot replace lost volume or lift tissue, so they can't substantially change the depth of an established fold. Deeper folds are usually addressed with in-clinic options such as dermal fillers or energy-based devices, performed by qualified practitioners.
- Everyone has nasolabial folds — they're anatomy, not a flaw.
- Depth comes from below the skin — volume and support.
- Topicals improve skin quality, not fold depth.
- Sunscreen is the most evidence-backed prevention step.
- What are nasolabial folds?
- Why do nasolabial folds deepen with age?
- What topicals can and can't change
- Topicals vs in-clinic options
- What does the research show?
- The F.O.L.D. Method
- Step-by-step: a skin-quality routine around the folds
- Nasolabial folds in Indian skin
- Illustrative case study
- Common myths
- Frequently asked questions
- Key takeaways
Nasolabial folds are one of the most searched signs of facial ageing — and one of the most over-promised in skincare marketing. Knowing what topicals can and can't change helps you spend wisely and set realistic expectations.
A commonly described pattern: someone in their forties buys creams promising to "fill" smile lines. Their skin feels softer, but the fold itself doesn't change.
The fold's depth comes from volume and support changes beneath the skin — something a cream can't reach. This scenario is illustrative and does not describe a specific individual.
What Are Nasolabial Folds?
- Location: creases running from the sides of the nose to the outer corners of the mouth.
- Normal anatomy: they form where the cheek meets the upper lip area, shaped by underlying fat compartments and muscle attachments.
- Visible at all ages: especially when smiling; even children have them.
- Not the same as wrinkles: a fold is a contour change; fine lines are surface creases on the skin.
- Related lines: marionette lines (from mouth corners down) and lip lines are separate concerns.
In simple terms: a nasolabial fold is like a crease in a cushion where the stuffing has shifted. Smoothing the fabric (skin) helps a little, but the shape depends on the stuffing underneath.
Why Do Nasolabial Folds Deepen With Age?
- Fat compartment changes: some facial fat pads lose volume and others descend, adding weight above the fold.
- Bone remodelling: the facial skeleton changes with age, reducing support for the mid-face.
- Skin laxity: collagen and elastin decline, so skin is less firm and resilient.
- Sun exposure: UV accelerates collagen breakdown and skin ageing.
- Weight changes: significant weight loss can make folds look deeper.
- Genetics and smoking: influence how early and how deeply folds develop.
See skin texture and microrelief.
What Topicals Can and Can't Change
| Concern Around the Fold | Can Topicals Help? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Fine lines on the skin surface | Yes, gradually | Retinoids have the strongest evidence over months |
| Dryness and dullness | Yes | Moisturisers can plump the surface temporarily |
| Texture and tone | Often | Retinoids, exfoliants and sunscreen |
| Future sun-related ageing | Yes — prevention | Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen |
| Overall depth of an established fold | Very little | Driven by volume and support beneath the skin |
| Lost volume or descended fat | No | Creams can't replace or lift tissue |
| Bone changes | No | Outside the reach of skincare |
Improve the skin, not the structure. Good skincare can make skin around the fold look smoother, healthier and less lined, which may soften the overall look a little. It can't "fill" or "lift" a fold — be wary of products that claim to.
Topicals vs In-Clinic Options
| Option | What It Targets | Results | Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Topical skincare | Skin quality, fine lines | Gradual, subtle | Low risk; ongoing use |
| Hyaluronic acid fillers | Volume in or near the fold or cheek | Immediate, temporary | Injection risks; requires a qualified injector |
| Biostimulatory injectables | Gradual collagen stimulation | Gradual, longer-lasting | Specialist treatment; nodules possible |
| Energy devices (radiofrequency, ultrasound) | Skin tightening | Modest, gradual | Several sessions; burn and pigment risks in brown skin |
| Thread lifts | Temporary lift | Variable | Procedure risks; results fade |
| Surgery (facelift) | Laxity and tissue position | Most substantial | Surgical risks and recovery |
A general overview, not a recommendation. Suitability, risks and costs should be discussed with a qualified dermatologist or plastic surgeon. Many people choose to do nothing — folds are normal.
What Does the Research Show?
| Source | Type | Finding |
|---|---|---|
| Rohrich & Pessa — Facial fat compartments (2007) | Anatomical study | The face has distinct fat compartments that change with age |
| Mendelson & Wong — Ageing facial skeleton (2012) | Review | Bone remodelling reduces mid-face support with age |
| Kafi et al. — Retinol in aged skin (2007) | Randomised trial | Topical retinol improved fine wrinkles in naturally aged skin |
| Hughes et al. — Sunscreen and skin ageing (2013) | Randomised trial | Daily sunscreen use was associated with less skin ageing over 4.5 years |
| Narins et al. — Fillers for nasolabial folds (2003) | Randomised trial | Hyaluronic acid filler improved nasolabial fold appearance |
| Mukherjee et al. — Retinoids in skin ageing (2006) | Review | Retinoids improve fine lines and texture but can irritate; gradual use is advised |
| Alam et al. — Facial exercises (2018) | Small pilot study | Facial exercises were associated with some improvement in cheek fullness; larger studies needed |
No high-quality evidence shows that topical skincare substantially reduces the depth of established nasolabial folds.
"Treat the skin with skincare, and the structure with structure. Mixing up the two is where most money is wasted."
Boldpurity Science TeamThe F.O.L.D. Method
To decide how to approach nasolabial folds, the Boldpurity Science Team uses the F.O.L.D. Method — an original educational framework, not a clinical assessment:
- F — Find the driver: is your concern surface lines and dull skin, or depth and sagging?
- O — Opt for the right tool: skincare for skin quality; a qualified clinician for volume or laxity.
- L — Limit expectations: topicals give gradual, subtle surface improvement — not a filled fold.
- D — Defend daily: sunscreen and a consistent routine slow future ageing.
The F.O.L.D. Method is an original Boldpurity Science Team teaching model. It is not a clinical assessment.
Step-by-Step: A Skin-Quality Routine Around the Folds
These eight steps put the four F.O.L.D. principles into practice.
- Cleanse gently morning and night.
- Hydrate with a humectant layer on slightly damp skin.
- Morning: consider an antioxidant serum.
- Night: introduce a retinoid slowly — two or three nights a week at first.
- Moisturise to support the barrier and plump the surface.
- Use broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning and reapply as directed.
- Take monthly photos in the same light to track realistic change over 3–6 months.
- Consult a qualified dermatologist or plastic surgeon if you want to address fold depth.
See starting retinoids, humectants vs occlusives and sunscreen for deeper skin tones.
Nasolabial Folds in Indian Skin
- Strong sun: high UV exposure across India makes daily sunscreen the most important step.
- Thicker skin: brown skin often shows fine lines later, but volume-related folds still develop.
- Weight changes: rapid weight loss — including after illness or dieting — can deepen folds.
- Injectables: choose a qualified dermatologist or plastic surgeon; avoid salon or unlicensed injections.
- Energy devices: radiofrequency and lasers carry burn and pigmentation risks in brown skin — choose experienced clinicians.
- Cultural context: visible smile lines are normal and expressive — treatment is a personal choice, not a necessity.
Illustrative Case Study
The example below is hypothetical and does not report measured results.
Profile: Age 44; medium-brown skin; noticed deeper smile lines after losing weight; skin feels dry and dull.
F.O.L.D. plan: Identifies two drivers — dull, dry skin and volume change. Starts hydration, a gentle retinoid and daily sunscreen; books a consultation with a dermatologist to discuss options for depth.
Hypothetical outcome (not a measured result): In this scenario, skin looks smoother and brighter after a few months; she decides on fold treatment separately after the consultation. Lesson: match the tool to the driver.
This guide was researched and reviewed by the Boldpurity Science Team using anatomical studies of facial fat and bone ageing, randomised trials of retinol, sunscreen and hyaluronic acid filler, and a pilot study of facial exercises. It does not recommend specific procedures, brands or doses. The case study is hypothetical. We update articles when significant new evidence is published.
Common Myths About Nasolabial Folds
Creams can plump the surface temporarily and improve fine lines, but they can't replace volume or lift tissue.
Fact: Topicals improve skin, not structure.
Expression shows the fold, but depth mainly comes from age-related volume, bone and skin changes.
Fact: Keep smiling — anatomy and ageing drive depth.
Frequently Asked Questions About Nasolabial Folds
Nasolabial Folds: Key Takeaways
Nasolabial folds are normal anatomy that deepen with age because of changes beneath the skin. Skincare can improve the skin around them, but not their structure. Use the F.O.L.D. Method — Find the driver, Opt for the right tool, Limit expectations, Defend daily — and spend on what each tool can genuinely do.
An encapsulated salmon PDRN serum (30 ml) with niacinamide, formulated to help support hydration and the look of signs of ageing — a skin-quality step, not a fold filler.
Explore SkinReset™
A water-light bubble toner serum (100 ml) designed for dryness and barrier support — hydrated skin can look temporarily smoother around fine lines.
Explore AquaBlur™
A spicule serum formulated to help refine the look of skin texture. It does not change fold depth. Use only as described in the approved directions on the product page; not on irritated or broken skin, and not alongside other irritating treatments.
Explore CellMorph™- Rohrich, R.J., & Pessa, J.E. (2007). The fat compartments of the face: anatomy and clinical implications for cosmetic surgery. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, 119(7), 2219–2227. PubMed
- Mendelson, B., & Wong, C.H. (2012). Changes in the facial skeleton with aging: implications and clinical applications in facial rejuvenation. Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, 36(4), 753–760. PubMed
- Kafi, R., Kwak, H.S., Schumacher, W.E., et al. (2007). Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Archives of Dermatology, 143(5), 606–612. PubMed
- Hughes, M.C., Williams, G.M., Baker, P., & Green, A.C. (2013). Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine, 158(11), 781–790. PubMed
- Narins, R.S., Brandt, F., Leyden, J., et al. (2003). A randomized, double-blind, multicenter comparison of the efficacy and tolerability of Restylane versus Zyplast for the correction of nasolabial folds. Dermatologic Surgery, 29(6), 588–595. PubMed
- Alam, M., Walter, A.J., Geisler, A., et al. (2018). Association of facial exercise with the appearance of aging. JAMA Dermatology, 154(3), 365–367. PubMed
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., et al. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327–348. PubMed
- Government of India, Ministry of Health and Family Welfare. The Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940 and the Cosmetics Rules, 2020. CDSCO
Links open the official source or a PubMed search for the cited paper.
© 2026 Boldpurity · For educational purposes only · Not to be reproduced without permission.