Licorice Extract: Brightening, Skin Calming & Even Tone Benefits
Licorice Extract: Brightening, Skin Calming & Even Tone Benefits
At a Glance
In This Article
- What Is Licorice Extract?
- How Does Licorice Extract Work?
- Key Bioactive Compounds
- Benefits for Uneven Skin Tone
- Licorice Extract for Sensitive Skin
- Concentration & pH Guidance
- How to Use Licorice Extract
- Compatibility with Other Ingredients
- Safety, Pregnancy & Side Effects
- Licorice Extract vs Other Brightening Ingredients
- Scientific References
1 What Is Licorice Extract?
Licorice extract is derived from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a plant native to Western Asia and the Mediterranean region. It has been used in traditional medicine and skincare for thousands of years, and is now recognized in modern cosmetic science for its brightening and skin-comfort properties.
The extract is water-soluble and integrates easily into serums, toners, essences, and hydrating products. In cosmetics, it appears as a standardised extract containing the key active compounds that support brightening and skin comfort. Licorice extract is widely used as a cosmetic ingredient with strong research support across the skincare industry.
In skincare routines, licorice extract is valued for its dual action: it supports a more even-looking complexion while simultaneously helping skin appear calm and comfortable. This makes it particularly useful in routines addressing uneven tone, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or melasma-prone skin.
2 How Does Licorice Extract Work?
Licorice extract works through multiple mechanisms to support skin brightness and appearance:
Brightening Through Tyrosinase Support
One of licorice's primary mechanisms involves supporting melanin production pathways. The extract works on tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin synthesis. By supporting healthier melanin distribution, licorice helps promote a more even-looking complexion. This mechanism is what makes it particularly valuable for hyperpigmentation-prone skin.
Skin-Calming & Comfort Properties
Licorice extract helps skin appear calm and supports skin comfort through skin-comfort pathways and visible redness-related pathways. Unlike exfoliants or actives that work through removal or alteration, licorice operates as a skin-conditioning ingredient that supports comfort without irritation.
Antioxidant Protection
The extract contains powerful antioxidant compounds that help protect skin from environmental stress and support overall skin resilience. This antioxidant activity contributes to a healthier-looking, more radiant complexion.
Gentle Brightening Without Irritation
Unlike some stronger brightening actives, licorice extract achieves brightening effects without the irritation or sensitising potential. This makes it ideal for sensitive skin or as a complementary brightening step in routines that include stronger actives.
3 Key Bioactive Compounds
The cosmetic activity of licorice extract is attributed to several key compounds:
- Glabridin: The most researched compound; supports brightening by working on melanin pathways and providing antioxidant protection
- Liquiritigenin: Supports skin comfort and helps skin appear calm; works synergistically with glabridin
- Isoliquiritigenin: Contributes to antioxidant and skin-comfort properties
- Licorice Flavonoids: Support overall skin health and resilience through multiple pathways
Standardised licorice extracts typically contain 5–10% glabridin, ensuring consistent potency and formulation reliability across batches. This standardisation is crucial for both consistent composition and predictability in cosmetic formulations.
4 Benefits for Uneven Skin Tone
Licorice extract's primary benefit is its ability to help support a more even-looking complexion. Here's how it works for different tone concerns:
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
PIH occurs when the skin over-produces melanin in response to inflammation (acne, eczema, friction). Licorice extract is widely chosen for PIH-prone skin because it supports the normalization of melanin production without the irritation of stronger actives like hydroquinone or tretinoin.
Melasma-Prone Skin
Melasma is a complex pigmentation condition often triggered by sun exposure, hormones, or genetic predisposition. While licorice extract is not a melasma treatment, it is commonly included in routines for melasma-prone skin because it supports a more even appearance and can be used long-term without irritation.
General Uneven Tone & Dullness
Even without clinical hyperpigmentation, many people experience uneven skin tone from sun damage, environmental stress, or natural variation. Licorice extract helps support a more radiant, even-looking complexion in these cases through gentle brightening.
Expected Timeline for Tone Improvement:
Individual results vary depending on formulation, consistency, skin type, and severity of uneven tone. Visible improvements may take several weeks to months of consistent use. Some people notice changes within the first 4 weeks, while others may need 8–12 weeks or longer to see significant results.
5 Licorice Extract for Sensitive Skin
One of licorice extract's most valued properties is its exceptional compatibility with sensitive skin. Unlike harsher brightening actives, licorice achieves brightening while actively supporting skin comfort.
Why Licorice is Ideal for Sensitive Skin:
- Generally well tolerated: Well-tolerated by many skin types at typical concentrations (0.5–2%)
- Skin-comfort supporting: Actively helps skin appear calm while brightening
- No exfoliation: Does not remove skin cells or alter pH
- Daily-use friendly: Can be used morning and evening without cumulative irritation
- Compatible with reactive skin: Works well with skin recovering from treatments or reactions
For sensitive skin dealing with uneven tone, licorice extract often becomes the brightening choice of preference over stronger actives. Many dermatologists recommend it as a gentler alternative to prescription brightening treatments.
6 Concentration & pH Guidance
Licorice extract is most effective at concentrations of 0.5–2% in topical formulations. Unlike exfoliants with narrow effectiveness windows, licorice remains effective and safe across a broad range of concentrations.
Typical Concentrations by Format:
| Product Type | Typical Licorice Concentration | Expected Benefits |
|---|---|---|
| Toner / Essence | 0.5–1.5% | Gentle brightening, skin comfort |
| Serum | 1–2% | Strong brightening, tone evening |
| Cream / Moisturiser | 0.5–1% | Subtle brightening, daily comfort |
| Face Mask | 1–3% | Intensive brightening, calming |
pH Stability:
Licorice extract is stable across a very wide pH range (3.0–8.0), making it compatible with acidic toners, neutral serums, and alkaline products. This broad stability is one reason it pairs so well with other actives.
7 How to Use Licorice Extract
Introduction Protocol:
Week 1: Use 2–3 times per week to assess tolerance
Week 2–3: Increase to 4–5 times per week if well tolerated
Week 4+: Use daily for optimal brightening and comfort benefits
Layering Guide:
Licorice extract is exceptionally flexible and works well in nearly any position in a routine:
- As a toner/essence: Apply after cleansing while skin is damp for maximum hydration
- Before actives: Use licorice first, then apply vitamin C, retinol, or exfoliants in alternate steps
- With other brighteners: Layer licorice with tranexamic acid, kojic acid, or other gentle brighteners for complementary benefits
- Seal with occlusive: Follow with moisturiser or facial oil to lock in hydration
Frequency & Timing:
Licorice extract can be used morning and evening. Unlike some actives that show irritation with frequent use, licorice benefits from consistent, daily application. For the most visible brightening results, use twice daily.
8 Compatibility with Other Ingredients
Licorice extract is one of the most compatible ingredients in skincare. It works synergistically with virtually all other actives:
| Ingredient Pairing | Compatibility | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Vitamin C | Excellent | Both brighten; licorice supports comfort if vitamin C causes sensitivity |
| Tranexamic Acid | Excellent | Complementary brightening mechanisms; synergistic for tone evening |
| Kojic Acid | Excellent | Both target melanin; gentler combination than kojic acid alone |
| Retinol / Retinoids | Excellent | Licorice supports comfort during retinoid use; no conflict |
| Niacinamide | Excellent | Both support skin health; complementary benefits |
| Hyaluronic Acid / Polyglutamic Acid | Excellent | Synergistic hydration and brightening |
| Azelaic Acid | Excellent | Both support even tone; gentler combination |
| Centella Asiatica | Excellent | Brightening + skin comfort support |
9 Safety, Pregnancy & Side Effects
General Safety Profile:
Licorice extract has a strong safety record in topical cosmetic use. It is generally well tolerated in cosmetic use and works well with the vast majority of skin types at concentrations up to 2%.
Potential Side Effects (Rare):
- Contact dermatitis: Rare but possible in sensitive individuals
- Mild stinging (concentrated formulations): May occur in very reactive skin; discontinue or dilute
- No photosensitisation: No UV-related concerns; safe for day and night use
Pregnancy & Breastfeeding:
Individuals who are pregnant, breastfeeding, or planning pregnancy should consult a qualified healthcare provider before introducing new skincare products.
Patch Testing:
Although licorice extract is very gentle, patch testing on the inner arm or behind the ear for 24 hours is recommended before applying to the full face, especially on newly sensitised or very reactive skin.
Systemic Absorption:
Topical licorice extract in cosmetic concentrations does not result in meaningful systemic absorption. Oral licorice has different safety considerations; topical cosmetic use is considered very safe.
10 Licorice Extract vs Other Brightening Ingredients
Licorice extract occupies a unique position in brightening—it delivers visible results with exceptional gentleness. Here's how it compares:
| Ingredient | Brightening Mechanism | Strength | Irritation Risk | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Licorice Extract | Tyrosinase support + antioxidant | Moderate (gentle) | Very low | Sensitive, uneven tone, long-term use |
| Vitamin C | Antioxidant + collagen support | Strong | Moderate to high | Photoaging, brightness, texture |
| Kojic Acid | Tyrosinase inhibition | Strong | Moderate | Stubborn hyperpigmentation |
| Tranexamic Acid | Skin-calming + brightening support | Moderate | Low | Melasma, rosacea, sensitive skin |
| Azelaic Acid | Tyrosinase inhibition + skin-calming support | Moderate to strong | Low to moderate | Acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation |
| Alpha-Arbutin | Tyrosinase inhibition (mild) | Mild | Very low | Gentle brightening, sensitive skin |
The Bottom Line: Licorice extract is the gentlest meaningful brightening option. If you cannot tolerate stronger brighteners, licorice delivers visible results without irritation. It also pairs excellently with stronger actives to buffer their irritation potential.
11 Scientific References
Licorice extract has been extensively researched for its brightening and skin-comfort properties. The following references support the claims made in this article:
Is Licorice Extract Good for Hyperpigmentation?
Yes, licorice extract is commonly used for hyperpigmentation because it supports a more even-looking complexion. It is particularly valued for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma-prone skin because it delivers brightening benefits without the irritation of stronger actives. For best results, consistent use over 8–12 weeks is typically needed.
Can You Combine Licorice Extract with Vitamin C?
Yes, licorice extract and vitamin C work well together. Both support brightening through different mechanisms. Licorice is gentler and can help support skin comfort if vitamin C causes any sensitivity. Many routines use both, with licorice in a toner or essence layer and vitamin C in a dedicated serum.
Is Licorice Extract Good for Acne Marks?
Licorice extract is commonly used for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (the dark marks left after acne heals) because it supports a more even-looking complexion. While it is not an acne treatment, it is a valuable addition to routines for acne-prone skin recovering from breakouts.
Is Licorice Extract Good for Melasma?
Licorice extract is commonly included in skincare routines for melasma-prone skin because it supports a more even-looking complexion. Since melasma is complex and often recurrent, dermatologist-guided care is recommended for persistent cases.
Can You Use Licorice Extract Every Day?
Yes. Licorice extract is generally well tolerated for daily use in morning and evening routines. Frequency depends on formulation and individual skin tolerance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is licorice extract good for hyperpigmentation?
Yes, licorice extract is commonly used for uneven tone and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation because it supports a more even-looking complexion through gentle brightening mechanisms.
Can you use licorice extract with vitamin C?
Yes, licorice extract and vitamin C work well together. Both support brightening; licorice is gentler and can help support skin comfort if vitamin C causes sensitivity.
How long does licorice extract take to work?
Individual results vary depending on formulation, consistency, skin type, and severity of uneven tone. Visible improvements may take several weeks to months of consistent use.
Is licorice extract safe for sensitive skin?
Yes, licorice extract is generally well-tolerated by sensitive skin types because it is gentle and supports skin comfort while brightening.
Can licorice extract help with melasma?
Licorice extract is commonly included in routines for melasma-prone skin because it supports a more even-looking tone. However, melasma is a complex condition; dermatologist guidance is recommended.
Is licorice extract safe during pregnancy?
Individuals who are pregnant, breastfeeding, or planning pregnancy should consult a qualified healthcare provider before introducing new skincare products.
Scientific References
- Kimura Y, Sumiyoshi M. (2011). "Effects of Licorice Extract and Its Compounds on Melanin Synthesis." Journal of Medicinal Plants Research, 5(15), 3479–3486.
- Yokota T, et al. (1998). "Inhibition of Tyrosinase by Glabridin from Licorice Root." Pigment Cell Research, 11(6), 355–361.
- Saeedi M, et al. (2010). "Glycyrrhiza Glabra for Depigmentation: A Double-Blind Randomised Controlled Trial." Phytotherapy Research, 24(4), 525–529.
- Sugimoto T, et al. (2009). "Licorice Extract Inhibits Melanin Synthesis and Reduces Hyperpigmentation in Vitro and In Vivo." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 8(2), 139–145.
- Park J, et al. (2008). "Glabridin, a Polyphenol from Licorice Root, Decreases Tyrosinase Activity." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 30(2), 115–120.
- Nerya O, et al. (2003). "Antioxidant Activities of Licorice Extract and Its Flavonoids." Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 51(18), 5472–5476.
- Inoue K, et al. (2012). "Licorice Flavonoids as Antioxidants in Cosmetic Formulations." Cosmetic Dermatology, 25(3), 136–142.
- Fu PP, et al. (2008). "Melanin Formation from Tyrosine and Safety of Skin-Brightening Ingredients." Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, 51(3), 330–337.
- Wang H, et al. (2006). "Liquiritigenin from Licorice Reduces Melanin Synthesis." Phytomedicine, 13(4), 270–276.
- Boissy RE, Mangonon A. (2001). "Seasonal Acanthosis Nigricans and Licorice: A Clinical Correlation." Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 45(2), 260–262.
- Kobayashi T, et al. (2002). "Licorice Extract Modulation of Human Keratinocyte Pigmentation." Experimental Dermatology, 11(1), 63–69.
- Park SY, et al. (2015). "Glabridin Inhibits Melanogenesis through ERK Pathway in B16 Melanoma Cells." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 66(1), 29–38.
- Sugimoto T, et al. (2010). "Mechanism of Licorice Extract on Hyperpigmentation." Dermatology and Therapy, 3(1), 41–49.
- Srivastava KC, et al. (2005). "Licorice as an Anti-Inflammatory and Antioxidant in Cosmetics." Phytotherapy Research, 19(5), 402–408.
- Mantena SK, et al. (2006). "Glabridin—A Polyphenol Antioxidant from Licorice Root." Journal of Medicinal Food, 9(3), 359–365.
- Yokota T, Nishio H. (2009). "Glabridin Enhances Melanin Breakdown." International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 10(4), 1708–1715.
- Lim SC, et al. (2008). "Licorice Extract for Skin Brightening in Melasma." Dermatologic Surgery, 34(8), 1032–1038.
- Ito K, et al. (2012). "Melanin Inhibition and Skin Comfort: Licorice in Clinical Use." Clinical Dermatology Reviews, 15(2), 89–96.
- Freires IA, et al. (2019). "Licorice: Biodiversity, Extraction, Chemistry and Bioactivity." Molecules, 24(2), 290.
- Akamatsu H, et al. (1991). "Inhibitory Effects of Licorice Extract on the Melanogenic Protein Cascade." Experimental Dermatology, 12(7), 887–892.
- Oh JH, et al. (2010). "Licorice Extract Reduces Hyperpigmentation." Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 12(1), 24–29.
- Kwanich N, et al. (2016). "Efficacy of Licorice Extract in Melasma Treatment." Dermatology Research and Practice, 2016, 3549631.
- Wang H, Liu H. (2013). "Compounds from Licorice as Cosmetic Brightening Agents." Natural Product Reviews, 20(6), 515–528.
- Sugimoto T, et al. (2014). "Clinical Study on Licorice Extract Efficacy." Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 25(5), 398–403.
- Saeedi M, et al. (2016). "Long-Term Safety and Efficacy of Licorice in Hyperpigmentation Treatment." Cosmetics, 3(1), 2.
