Enoxolone — Licorice's Gentle Soothing Ingredient
Quick Answer
Enoxolone — glycyrrhetinic acid — is a compound from licorice root used at low levels as a soothing ingredient. Most articles stop at "it's calming." There is a specific mechanism, and it is worth knowing.
It inhibits an enzyme called 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 2, whose job is to inactivate cortisol in tissue. Block that enzyme and your own cortisol persists locally for longer — which is the documented basis of the anti-inflammatory effect.
That also explains a useful detail: the same enzyme inhibition is why eating a lot of licorice affects blood pressure. Topical use at 0.5–2% is a completely different exposure — but it tells you this is a real pharmacological mechanism, not a vague botanical claim.
Licorice turns up constantly on sensitive-skin labels, usually described in the vaguest possible terms. It deserves better, because what it actually does is unusually specific.
What we'll cover
How It Actually Works
Cortisol is your body's own anti-inflammatory hormone. Tissues regulate how much active cortisol is present using an enzyme — 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 2 — which converts cortisol into an inactive form. That is a normal control mechanism, keeping cortisol activity in check locally.
Glycyrrhetinic acid blocks that off-switch
By inhibiting the enzyme, glycyrrhetinic acid slows the local inactivation of cortisol. More of your own cortisol stays active in the tissue for longer, and cortisol is anti-inflammatory. That is the documented basis of the soothing effect.
It is also why licorice derivatives appear alongside topical corticosteroids in dermatology — they have a recognised steroid-sparing quality, allowing a given amount of steroid to do more. Enoxolone is not itself a steroid; it changes how long your own cortisol lasts.
This distinguishes it from most cosmetic soothers. Ingredients like bisabolol and allantoin work through different routes. Enoxolone works by adjusting an endocrine control step in the skin — which is a genuinely different kind of mechanism, and why it earns a place in formulations for reactive skin rather than just appearing on the label for reassurance.
Two Compounds, Two Jobs
"Licorice extract" appears in both brightening products and soothing products, which looks contradictory until you know the plant contains several distinct actives.
| Compound | What it does | Found in |
|---|---|---|
|
Glycyrrhetinic acid (enoxolone) |
Anti-inflammatory, via the cortisol enzyme above | Soothing and sensitive-skin formulas |
| Glabridin | Inhibits tyrosinase — the pigment-synthesis enzyme | Brightening and tone-evening formulas |
| Glycyrrhizin | The sweet-tasting component; also anti-inflammatory | Both, and food use |
So "licorice root extract" on a label tells you less than a named compound does. An extract may be standardised for glabridin, for glycyrrhetinic acid, or for neither. If soothing is what you want, enoxolone or glycyrrhetinic acid named specifically is more informative than a general extract.
One further detail for label reading: the form used in cosmetics is normally 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid. The 18α isomer exists but is less commonly used.
The Licorice Caution, In Proportion
Why eating licorice is a different matter
The same enzyme inhibition that makes glycyrrhetinic acid soothing on skin has a well-documented systemic consequence when licorice is consumed in quantity: raised blood pressure and lowered potassium, because cortisol left active in the kidney acts on mineralocorticoid receptors.
This is not a reason to avoid it in skincare. Cosmetic use involves a very small amount applied to skin at 0.5–2%, which is not a comparable exposure, and glycyrrhetinic acid has been assessed for cosmetic safety by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review.
It is included because it shows this is a genuine pharmacological mechanism rather than botanical hand-waving — and because anyone with hypertension or on potassium-affecting medication is better served knowing the mechanism than being told it is simply gentle.
On pregnancy: topical cosmetic use of enoxolone is not the same as licorice consumption, and it is widely used. But given that this ingredient has a defined pharmacological action, the appropriate answer during pregnancy or breastfeeding is to ask your doctor about your routine rather than to take a blanket reassurance from an article.
Who It Suits
Particularly useful for
- Reactive skin that flushes easily — the mechanism targets inflammation specifically
- Skin recovering from strong actives — where the goal is comfort rather than more activity
- Formulations pairing it with retinoids or acids — its steroid-sparing quality is why it appears there
- Anyone who reacts to fragrance and botanical extracts — a named single compound is more predictable than a whole-plant extract
That last point deserves emphasis. A named isolated compound is generally more predictable than a whole-plant extract, because an extract carries whatever else the plant contained — including, in many botanicals, declarable fragrance allergens. If your skin is reactive, "glycyrrhetinic acid" on a label is a more specific piece of information than "licorice root extract."
How To Use It
Enoxolone almost always appears as a supporting ingredient inside a formulation rather than as a standalone product, so in practice you are choosing a product rather than a step.
- Look for it named specifically — "enoxolone" or "glycyrrhetinic acid" tells you more than "licorice root extract."
- Expect it low on the ingredient list. Used around 0.5–2%, so it belongs near the end. That is not a shortcoming.
- Useful alongside demanding actives, which is why it is often formulated into retinoid and acid products.
- Fine for daily use, morning and evening, and it does not increase sun sensitivity — though daily sun protection remains non-negotiable regardless.
- Patch test anyway. Being well tolerated in general says nothing about your particular skin, and reactive skin has earned its caution.
A realistic note
Enoxolone is a supporting ingredient with a real mechanism — not a treatment. Persistent redness, flushing or irritation deserves a diagnosis rather than a soothing ingredient, since conditions such as rosacea and contact dermatitis are managed quite differently and neither improves by being soothed indefinitely. If it is not settling, that is a dermatologist's question.
Frequently Asked Questions
How does enoxolone actually soothe skin?
By inhibiting 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 2 — the enzyme that inactivates cortisol in tissue. Blocking it means your own cortisol, which is anti-inflammatory, stays active locally for longer. That is a specific documented mechanism rather than a general botanical claim, and it is also why licorice derivatives are used alongside topical corticosteroids for their steroid-sparing quality. Enoxolone is not itself a steroid.
Is it the same as licorice extract?
No, and the distinction is useful. Licorice contains several actives with different jobs: glycyrrhetinic acid, which is anti-inflammatory; glabridin, which inhibits tyrosinase and is the brightening component; and glycyrrhizin, the sweet-tasting one. That is why licorice appears in both soothing and brightening products. An extract may be standardised for any of these or none, so a named compound on the label is more informative.
I've read licorice raises blood pressure. Should I worry?
Not about skincare. That effect is well documented but relates to eating licorice in quantity — the same enzyme inhibition acts in the kidney, raising blood pressure and lowering potassium. A cosmetic product using 0.5–2% on skin is not a comparable exposure, and glycyrrhetinic acid has been assessed for cosmetic safety. It is worth knowing because it shows this is a genuine pharmacological mechanism rather than marketing.
Is it safe in pregnancy?
Topical cosmetic use is a very different exposure from licorice consumption, and it is widely used. But because this ingredient has a defined pharmacological action rather than being inert, the sensible answer during pregnancy or breastfeeding is to run your routine past your doctor rather than rely on a general reassurance from an article.
Why is it so low on the ingredient list?
Because it is used at roughly 0.5–2%, which places it near the end. That is normal for this ingredient and not a sign of a token amount — active levels vary enormously between ingredients, and position on the list only tells you about relative quantity, not adequacy.
Can I use it with retinoids or acids?
Yes, and that is one of its most common uses — formulators often build it into retinoid and acid products precisely because its anti-inflammatory action improves tolerability. If you are layering separately, apply the soothing product after the active rather than before, and remember it improves comfort rather than cancelling irritation.
Will it fix my redness?
It can improve comfort and the appearance of transient irritation, but persistent redness is worth diagnosing rather than soothing. Rosacea, contact dermatitis and other conditions look similar and are managed differently, and none improves by being calmed indefinitely. If redness is ongoing rather than occasional, see a dermatologist.
The Bottom Line
Enoxolone is not just "a gentle botanical". It inhibits the enzyme that switches off cortisol in your skin, so your own anti-inflammatory hormone stays active locally for longer — a specific mechanism, and the reason licorice derivatives are used alongside corticosteroids. Look for it named rather than as a general extract, expect it low on the list, and take persistent redness to a dermatologist rather than soothing it indefinitely.
References
- Stewart PM, Wallace AM, Valentino R, Burt D, Shackleton CH, Edwards CR. Mineralocorticoid activity of liquorice: 11-beta-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase deficiency comes of age. The Lancet. 1987;2(8563):821–824.
- Teelucksingh S, Mackie AD, Burt D, McIntyre MA, Brett L, Edwards CR. Potentiation of hydrocortisone activity in skin by glycyrrhetinic acid. The Lancet. 1990;335(8697):1060–1063.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Safety assessment of glycyrrhetinic acid, potassium glycyrrhetinate and related ingredients as used in cosmetics.
- Yokota T, Nishio H, Kubota Y, Mizoguchi M. The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation. Pigment Cell Research. 1998;11(6):355–361.
- Boldpurity in-house data: protocol SKIN-BPAG-2025-01, in-vivo study, MS Clinical Research Bangalore, IEC-ACE approved, N=30 completers, 8 weeks, Fitzpatrick III–V.
Note to editor: the previous list contained two regulations and one CIR entry, none of which supported the article's specific claims. These are the primary sources for the mechanism described. Please verify before publication.
Disclaimer
This article is for informational purposes only and is not medical advice. Descriptions of enzyme inhibition, cortisol regulation, glabridin and systemic effects of licorice describe published research and general pharmacology, not the effect of any product. Enoxolone is a cosmetic ingredient, not a medicine, and is not a treatment for any skin condition. The systemic effects described relate to licorice consumed in quantity and not to topical cosmetic use. Anyone with hypertension, low potassium, or taking medication affecting potassium or blood pressure should raise any question about licorice-containing products with their doctor. If pregnant, breastfeeding or trying to conceive, discuss your routine with your doctor rather than relying on general reassurance. Persistent redness, flushing, irritation or a suspected skin condition should be assessed by a qualified dermatologist. Aligned with the India CDSCO cosmetic framework, the Cosmetics Rules 2020 and the ASCI Code 2021. Results may vary. Patch test before use.
